3. Enhancements

Updated September 8, 2011

3.1 What do all those words & letters mean?

If you're new to these cars, here's a quick list of "buzzwords" that will have you up & running with the shop owners in short order:

AFM Air Flow Meter - Located in the pipe from the air filter to the turbocharger.  Measures the volume of air coming into the engine
Advance Refers to the timing of ignition in the engine.  Because fuel takes time to ignite, the spark plug must be fired before the piston reaches the top of it's travel.  The number of degrees of rotation of the crankshaft before the top this occurs is known as the advance.
Air Filter Used to filter out dirt and contaminants from the air entering the engine.  If it's not there, the dirt will eventually damage internal components because it's very abrasive.
Apexi Japanese after-market component manufacturer
Autronic Australian engine management system manufacturer
Bleed Valve See section 3.10
Blitz Japanese after-market parts manufacturer
Blow Off Valve
Device used to dump excess air from the turbocharger when the throttle is closed.  There are two main types, the venting (dumps excess air to the outside) and recirculating (returns the air to the turbocharger outlet).  The 200SX has a recirculating type fitted as standard
Boost Air pressure generated by the turbocharger.
Boost Controller Used to adjust the amount of boost pressure generated by the turbocharger.  There are mechanical types (like a bleed valve) or electronic.
Camshaft Indirectly open the valves in the cylinder head to allow air in and exhaust gasses out at the right time.
Catalytic Converter
Part of the exhaust system.  It's purpose is to remove harmful chemicals by means of a catalysing reaction (too complicated for me) with platinum mesh inside the converter.
Chip Generic term for modifications to the standard engine management system.  See section 3.4
Chiptorque Australian company who modify factory engine management systems
Cold Air Duct See section 3.6
Closed-Loop Mode of operation for engine management.  Fuel and ignition timing is adjusted based on the output of the Lambda Sensor in the exhaust system.
Crankshaft Converts the vertical motion of the pistons to rotation which is transferred to the gearbox.
Cusco Japanese suspension manufacturer
Dump Valve See "Blow Off Valve"
ECU "Electronic Control Unit" or "Engine Control Unit" - The electronic system which manages fuel injection and ignition (among a lot of other functions.
ECCS Nissan's name for their engine management.
Electronic Boost Controller
Electronic device which measures the boost generated by the turbocharger and allows operator to vary it above the limits set by the factory.  This is normally done by limiting the air pressure fed to the wastegate, so that the boost level appears to be standard
Fuel Cut-off Engine management may shut off fuel injectors during over boost or over rev conditions.
Fuel Injector Electronically (in modern cars) controlled valve which feeds fuel into the engine in precise quantities
Gracer One of the brand names used by TRUST Company of Japan
Greddy One of the brand names used by TRUST Company of Japan
Haltech Australian engine management system manufacturer
High Intensity Discharge
Lighting system used on the Japanese S15 Silvias.
HKS Japanese after-market parts manufacturer
Injector See Fuel Injector
JDM "Japanese Domestic Market"
Lambda Sensor Measures the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas.  This is a measure of the fuel/air ratio. Sometimes called an "O2" sensor, the signal is sent to the engine management system as part of closed-loop operation.
LSD Limited Slip Differential.  Fitted as standard to turbocharged Silvias since 1994
Motec Australian engine management system manufacturer
Nismo Nissan competition and motorsport division
Tein Japanese suspension manufacturer
Trust Japanese after-market parts manufacturer
Whiteline Australian suspension manufacturer
Xenon Gas used in some headlight globes, as well as in High-Intensity lighting.  Noted for giving lights a "white' colour
"Zorst" Another way of saying "Exhaust"
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3.2 How can I improve the roadholding of my car?

The basic car is well sorted, but like all mass-market vehicles it suffers from being built "down to a price". The consensus is that these cars definitely need more rubber underneath them, doubly so for the turbocharged versions. Standard rims in most markets are 16" by 6.5" all round, except for the base 240SX which is 15" x 6".

There appears to be plenty of room to run larger wheels under the standard guards. Check with the relevant authorities in your area before proceeding, but a popular combination is 17" x 9" on the rear and 17" x 8" on the front. We're now talking about 45-series rubber which is not cheap, and ride quality will suffer, but hey, this is supposed to be a sports car isn't it?

Note that if you lower the S14 or S15, you will suffer from excessive negative camber at the rear.  Whiteline have a kit to correct this if necessary.

Having sorted out the rubber, some have noted that the factory suspension is a bit overworked. A number of vendors in different locations have suspension (springs, dampers) packages available. These changes should be considered in conjunction with the choice of tyres and wheels and for the intended purpose of the car (quick road, race, etc). For one example, check out Eibach in the US, or Selby in Australia. NISMO Part # for the damper kit is 54300-RS540

A front strut brace is available from many sources.  NISMO part number is 54420-RN526

The S14 and S15 also seem to very sensitive to differences in tyre pressures, especially with bigger wheels.

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3.3 What's a popular development plan?

(NOTE: This information is derived from talking to a lot of people.  It will work pretty well on an S14 or S15)

If you want to step it up a notch, a newly developed set of engine and gearbox mounts has been released by VIBRA-TECHNICS


So, by those steps, your car looks better, handles better, sounds better and goes better to the tune of 85KW (113HP) at the flywheel. Put it another way, the twin-turbo 300ZX has less power...

Of course, your warranty is null and void...

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3.4 Are there "chips" available for my car?

Yes. Several manufacturers have packages available for the 200SX. Australian Road and Track magazine tested a 200SX with a package from PowerChip and the test car knocked a second of the 0-100Km/h time over standard. Fueltronics offer an agressive package for street and track as well.  Chiptorque have modified the standard S14 ECU with good results on a number of cars here.   If money is no object, MoTec, Autronic or Haltech offer completely new engine management systems.

UK owners could contact SuperChips for 30 - 40 extra horsepower.

The S14a uses an embedded ECU ROM, which means you can't just plug in a new chip. The folks at PowerChip tell me they use an additional computer in these cases which "massages" the data going to the standard Nissan ECU. Results are the same, but the installation is not really for the Do-It-Yourself crowd.

An alternative to this is the UniChip, distributed in Australia by Air Power Systems.  This is a programmable "interceptor" which allows tuning of ECU input and output signals, leaving the ECU as-is.

In the same vein is the HKS F-CONV piggyback unit.  Hot 4's fitted one of these to a 1995 car with excellent results.

New options that have come to my attention are the LINK Engine Management System from AVO in Melbourne, Australia, and the APEXi "PowerFC". They plug into the factory harness, completely replacing the Nissan ECCS module. They are also highly programmable, but not as ultimately tuneable as a full replacement ECU.

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3.5 What needs to be done to the brakes?

From where I'm sitting, not much for the open road. Officially, the brakes came off the 300ZX/R33 Skyline, and most people think they stop OK. A colleague who has driven both swears the 200's brakes are perhaps a little better, but this might be simply a newer, tighter car. Either way, that's high praise indeed.

One contributor says for track work the standard pads (in the UK) are just not up to it. He fitted new pads obtained through Demon Tweaks in the UK. I can't comment on these claims.

Steve from Melbourne, Australia feels the Endless pads are suitable for both street and track work. This seems to be more important on the rears which can get overworked.

I switched to Pagid for the 1999 Grand Prix Rally. I must say I am very impressed, but you'll have to keep working to keep your wheels clean as they throw huge amounts of dust.

Kevin has suggested good choices to be Bendix Metal King Semi-Metallics, Performance Friction or Hawk

If anyone else has experience in this area, please let me know

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3.6 What's a cold air duct?

So... You've improved the exhaust, fitted a "high-flow" air filter, replaced the ECU, fixed the suspension, and generally had a great time. Where is the air coming from that's being fed into the engine? Right... It's being drawn in from the engine bay and the stock air sensor position is close to all those hot parts.

The inlet side of the factory air filter can be modified to accept a pipe that runs down beside the intercooler ducting to the undertray area (on an S14-style car).

Another option is if you replace the stock airbox with a pod, there is a small flat plastic cover which shields the LH headlight wiring. If you remove this, (it just clips in) you can get a length of pipe between through there to draw air in behind the grille opening.

The S14a cars have a simple cold-air pipe that can be adapted to feed your new filter

This draws air in from the main stream, which may be up to 60 degrees cooler than the engine bay. It's simple physics that cooler air is more dense, so you get more air into the engine. More air makes for for more horsepower...

Tok in Japan has a design for a heatshield that can be used on an S15, and it looks like it would fit the S14 as well.  The link is:http://www7.plala.or.jp/tok/silvia/tuning_heatseald_power-intake-e.html

For your convenience, you can download a PDF of the plan here

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3.7 How do I install a boost gauge?

Why don't Nissan fit one to cars outside Japan? Beats me, but if you want to do it yourself, it's not that hard.

The first part is find a gauge that you like (I used a 46mm HKS unit). Unfortunately the instructions were all in Japanese and the most useful bit was this picture. Dean Evans from "Fast Fours" came to my rescue. You need to insert a T-piece into the pipe that goes from the inlet manifold to the fuel pressure regulator. Simple eh? You try finding it...

With the bonnet (hood) open, stand at the right side of the motor. Look at the left side of the intake plenum (the big silver box). In line with number 2 cylinder is a small rubber pipe that heads forward to a metal "can" located below the valve timing solenoid. This is the one you want. Now here's where it gets tricky. The original pipe is a little over 50mm (2") long, and it turns ninety degrees at about three-quarters of it's length. IF you just cut this tube and insert the T-piece, the barbs of the T are likely to be too long so either the tube won't be in the right place or it will crimp trying to make the bend. The solution is to make up a new hose tat uses the T-piece to make the ninety-degree bend for you and use one "straight" end for the pressure regulator, the other for the gauge and the "middle" for the manifold. Now you can neatly run the tube under the plenum and back to the gauge. There are four rubber plugs in the firewall near the back of the engine (probably more if you have an auto), so you don't even need to drill any holes (but remember to use a grommet!)

The only hard part left is to mount the gauge. That's a matter of personal preference. If your car doesn't have the "premium" sound package (or if you remove it), there is a shelf above the ashtray that will easily fit three 50mm gauges (hey, guess where the Japanese cars have the boost, oil and volt gauges :). Me? I replaced the ashtray...

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3.8 How do I install an oil pressure gauge?

The mounting notes for the boost gauge apply equally here, as do routing the pipe or wire (depending on if you have an electric or capillary gauge).  The question here is where do I connect it on the engine?

The traditional place is at the oil-pressure switch.  On the SR20DE & SR20DET engines this is to the rear of the oil filter (which is on the right side of the engine, down low).  An auto parts supplier should be able to supply the fittings you need.  Looking at the wiring diagram, it seems the ECCS does not need the switch to be there, but you probably want to keep it.  In this case a brass "T" fitting could be screwed into the original hole, and the switch and gauge take-off fitted to this.

Be sure your connections are tight and carried out in a professional manner.  Oil leaks are nasty, not to mention hot.

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3.9 What Do-it-yourself electronic add-ons are there?

Don't get me wrong. There is nothing wrong with the bolt-on products that come from Japan. There are, however sometimes less expensive options. I have not tested all of these ideas, but the schematics seem valid enough, and the operating theory sound.

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3.10 What's a bleed valve?

A bleed valve is a simple, mechanical means of raising the boost in a turbocharged engine.  The idea is to restrict the amount of air pressure available to operate the wastegate (this works with or without ECCS control).  If fitted and set up correctly, they give very good results for a low initial cost.

In Australia, you could buy one from TurboSmart or make your own.  AutoSpeed ran an article on exactly how to do this, as have Zoom Magazine.

A word of warning though.  Don't just fiddle with the valve unless you know exactly what you are doing...  You can get massive boost which will destroy the engine very quickly.

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3.11 What's the CONSULT port and how can it help me?

The CONSULT port is located in the main fuse panel of all Nissan vehicles built since somewhere in 1992. It is intended for use with a service tool called "CONSULT". Nissan will happily tell you this part of the story. What is not as commonly known is that the ECU is always reporting via this port and a number of engine parameters are available in real time.
There are two devices I know of that can read this data stream other than the CONSULT unit itself. The Techtom MDM-100, distributed outside Japan by G-Force Engineering (resold by Stillen) and the APEXi Multi-Checker

Be warned though that Stillen and G-Force advertise that the MDM-100 has an inbuilt data logging facility. This is not correct. The logging feature is a separate product, which is not available outside of Japan, apparently because it requires Japanese Windows to operate.

The other limitation of either device is that only two parameters may be examined at any time. (this is not a limit of the CONSULT system), and it is read-only. You cannot alter anything with these units.

If you want the connector details, they are located on this page.

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3.12 How can I mount a camera in the car?

A popular thing to do these days is to carry a small video camera in the car at club events and the like. In Australia, and probably some other markets the SX has two tapped mounting points in the rear shelf for child restraints. The car even comes with matching bolts for them. Mounting the camera is a matter cutting a length of aluminium bar to fit between these points (bolt in using rubber spacers to reduce vibration). Depending on the camera, you may need a gooseneck to clear the back window, or the other option is to use a "tripod clamp" (available from professional photographic suppliers) to attach direct to the bar. The best thigs about this approach is that there is no cutting or drilling required of the car itself.

Another hint: Pull the zoom out to "wide angle" and you'll get yourself in the shot as well.

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3.13 Will an RB26DETT fit in my engine bay?

(For those not familiar with Nissan engine nomenclature, this is the 2.6 litre twin turbo 6 fitted to the Skyline GT-R)
While I have not seen this personally, C-West Service Factory in Hyogoken, Japan built one for drag racing, but according to the article, the car can be street driven as well.

The engine is fitted with the sump from the RB25DET to facilitate a conversion to RWD, and in this case the engine was converted to use a single, large turbo although this was done for outright performance rather than packaging reasons. You'd need new brakes, front suspension and a lot of fabrication to cope with the conversion, but I guess if cost is no object...

Akamine's Tuning Spirits in Okinawa will do the conversion for about 750,000 Yen.  I don't know whether that includes the engine or not.

Japanese Motor Sports in Adelaide, South Australia have transplanted an RB20DET into an S13 Silvia.  Apparently the conversion was relatively straightforward.

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3.14 Where can I find a manual for a ...?

I get this one a lot, Either someone buys a second-hand controller, or needs a manual translated.  This is a list of on-line manuals that I know about.  There are probably others, so please let me know!

Maker Model Link Notes
Apexi AVC-R I http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/avc-r/  
Apexi SSVC-R http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocumentation/electronics_savcr_ins.pdf  
Apexi Turbo Timer http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocumentation/electronics_autotimer.pdf  
Apexi Rev/Speed Meter http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocumentation/electronics_revspeedmeter.pdf  
Apexi Many http://www.apexi-usa.com/documentation.asp  
Blitz DSBC http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/dsbc_inst.html  Photo
TRUST/Greddy Profec http://www.greddy.com/profecguide.html  

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3.15 I'm on a budget, how can I improve my car?

We had an email recently from someone with a budget of $A500, and it got us thinking.   We came up with the following list.

We've got money left over, and the car will be quicker.  You'll only be able to turn the boost up a little with the stock intercooler, but it can be done!  If anyone else has a good, low-budget please let me know and we'll add it to the page.

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3.16 How big is the stock intercooler and should I replace it?

The stock intercooler really is tiny...  On an S14 it is 220mm x 170mm x 60mm not counting the end tanks.  If you haven't seen it, click here for some photos:

Rear View Bottom Top Pipe Side

The S15 is said to have a slightly thicker core, but I have yet to verify this personally.  If you think that's bad, the RB20DET and RB25DET-powered Skylines use the same intercooler!

So should you replace it?  If you live in a hot climate, and want to turn the boost up, then it should be on your list of priorities if you want your engine to be reliable.  There are plenty of aftermarket intercoolers available, and it's also possible to adapt the Skyline GT-R, or Mark IV Toyota Supra unit to fit behind the front bar.  Given it costs a lot less than the Japanese branded units, it's worth a look.

Is there a downside?  Yes.  You will get a bit more lag as the new pipework and intercooler take more air to pressurise them.

Why do the factory fit such a tiny unit?  Probably to keep the cost down...

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3.18 What's this about a free boost upgrade?

It's true.  You can get a 1-2 psi upgrade by removing the boost restrictor on the top of solenoid valve.  It is identified by a white band on the hose which goes from inlet pipe to the solenoid valve. This pipe is at the top of the boost control solenoid. If you don't want to cut the hose, just get a piece of 1/4" fuel hose the same length, and replace the original hose with this new piece.

Remember to reconnect all hoses.  There is nothing left off or disconnected after this modification.  Let me stress this again, There is nothing left off or disconnected after this modification.  Take the car for a drive and watch your boost gauge.  Make sure there is no major increase or decrease in boost level.  If there is, stop and recheck your work!

One or two PSI might not sound much, but remember that the export-spec cars run around 10psi (0.7 bar), this is up to twenty percent, or somewhere about 8-10 kilowatts at the rear wheels.  On an S15, we saw 20KW at the wheels. Not bad for nothing!

So, the obvious questions are, why does it work, and will it cause any damage?  It works because removing the restrictor changes the pressure signal to the wastegate actuator.  From the factory, it is designed to open slowly, and make the transition nice and gentle, by allowing the wastegate to "creep" open a little before we reach the preset boost limit.  The restrictor is what causes this creep, by restricting the flow from the solenoid valve.  Without it, the wastegate stays shut (or as close as mechanically possible)  till the preset level is reached.  The opening is now a "snap" operation.

Will it hurt anything?  We know of cars which have run this modification for 2-3 years without problems.  If you fit an aftermarket boost controller, you generally take the restrictor hoses out anyway.  Your mileage and durability may vary.

(Thanks Phil for letting us photograph your car and publish the Dyno Chart)

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3.19 My clutch is wearing out, what are my options?

Several options exist. Namely:

  1. Organic Face: Composed of an organic material. Often in a "full face" design which means that there are no gaps in the outer edge of the clutch plate (as is the case in the next design). This is the way most of the OEM clutches are made and generally result in a smoother feel when changing gears because there is allowance for slipping.

    Advantages include smoothness (less likely to stall), less pressure on gearbox than next design. Disadvantages include increased changes of slipping and increased wear rate. Generally suited for street and high performance applications.
  2. Puck: This is a design where several pucks extend out from the centre of the clutch plate. This results in a very aggresive gripping action (as there is no allowance for gradual easing of the clutch plate as in the prvious design). Due to the force exerted on the actual clutch plate itself, this design is usually made of brass button which increase strength and grip.

    Advantages include very strong grip (hardly any slip) and strong clutch design. Disadvantages include increased pressure transferred to gearbox (hence more pressure on drivetrain). Generally suited for drag/track applications.
  3. Upgrade Pressure Plate: This option does not change the clutch plate, but rather, increases the clamping pressure on the existing clutch plate. This means you can still get increased grip (to a certain extent) but is not helpful of your clutch plate is already worn as this method increased wear rate dramatically. Advantages include cost (cheapest of the options) and less likely to damage your drivetrain as it is less stressfull than the other options above.

Options 1 and 2 come in single or multi plate configurations and have different effects on the clamping pressure/technique on the flywheel. It is best to speak to a person who is qualified to advise you of the option which best suits you.

You must keep one thing in mind; "Every action has an equal and opposite reaction." So, if the weakness of the clutch has been eliminated, the weakness transfers to something else eg. gearbox, tailshaft, diff, etc. Ask yourself the question; do you want a really strong clutch which will do its job well, when you know your gearbox is next in line, and is much more expensive to repair/replace?

*Contributed by Chucksta!

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3.20 Can I buy a clutch for my S15 which suits a SR20DET, e.g. from an S13/S14 Silvia/200SX?

No. The first thing you need to know is that the S15 has a dual mass flywheel. This means the clutch plate and flywheel are put together differently to the S13/S14 gearbox/flywheel combination.

The dual mass flywheel is sprung in the middle which is designed to reduce harmonic vibrations induced from rotational idle of the flywheel. Other benefits are supposed to be smoother driving and easier gear changes.

Because of this, you will need to either buy a clutch which is a solid centre and is suited to the dual mass flywheel. Alternatively, change the flywheel to a solid centred design and have a clutch which is sprung (as in the S13/S14).

Many S15 owners have converted to sold centre flywheel design and have had no difficulties or adverse side-effects. However, it is possible that you hear a whining noise which is the result of harmonic resonance is the flywheel is either not correctly installed or designed. This can also be cause by the build of the gearbox. This is an unlikely outcome, but one you should consider nonetheless. To overcome it, you will need to take the flywheel back to the place of manufacture to see if they can work something out.

*Contributed by Chucksta!

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3.21 What modifications are legal?

This gets very difficult...  In most states of Australia here's what we know:

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3.22Where do I get a Japanese Number (Licence) Plate for my car?

Legally, the only way to get one is to own and drive your car in Japan. Under Japanese law, the plate is affixed when the car is first registered, and may only be removed when the car is de-registered and scrapped. Part of the scrapping process involves returning the plates, and there are stiff fines for not doing so.

Be aware that most of the "genuine" plates for sale on sites such as EBay are knock-offs. You're better off buying a replica and knowing what you're getting in my opinion.
On rare occasions, a car does somehow get exported with plates attached, but these usually become collectors items very quickly.

That said, you can make your own...  Japanese plates are 16.25 x 32.5 cm (6.5 x 13 inches), which is just a little bigger than a sheet of A4 paper. For the purposes here, the difference isn't that significant. There is Wikipedia article which explains how the numbering works. To make it simple, I have created a set of "dummy plates" using Microsoft Publisher. You can download, modify and print to your heart's content. Download Now
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3.23 Where do I buy performance parts?

Please send details of suppliers

I have not tried all of the suppliers on this list, and they are in no particular order. All I know is that some of you were happy with either the parts or service.

Part of the Unique Auto Sports organisation.

Active Auto Sportique 
  Advanced Jap Auto Imports
(+61-3-9310-1150/mobile: 0421 025 216
Air Power Systems
(+61-3-9720-9170/fax: +61-3-9720-4850)
Produce the "JR" series of upgrade packages for the S15 and distribute UniChip products.
APEX Performance Parts
Nissan performance specialists in the UK
A.V.O. Australia
(+61-3-9584-4489) - Manufacture electronic parts for many turbo cars.
BAZ Motorsports (+61-2-9693-5544)
(+61-2-9879-3322/fax +61-2-9879-3366) - Master HKS distributor
(+61-7- 3344 2558/fax +61-7- 3344-7677)
CheckerFlag Japan
(+61-7- 5596- 4204) - Custom engine management tuning.
Evolution R Australia
(+61-3-9873-4388) - Master TRUST distributor
Exhaust Dynamics
Federal Performance Parts
(+61-2- 9586-1428)
(0500-551-655/Intl +61-141-888-122)
Australian bodykit manufacturers
GTech Auto Accessories
(+61-3-9813-0722) - Apexi Distributors
GT Motorsports
(+64-9-309-6658) - Performance suppliers in Auckland, New Zealand
(+61-2-9525-2400) - Engine Management Systems
  HB International
+61-405-415-348 Importers with agents in Japan
Japanese Motor Sports
(+61-8-8260-6919/fax +61-8-8260-5000)
Just Silvia Parts
Kinki Company
(Japan) (+81-6-6746-1113) Motor Traders and exporters
  Lander Nissan
(+61-2-9622-6000)  Source of Nismo parts in Sydney
(+61-3-9761-5050/Fax: +61-3-9761-5051) Replacement engine management systems for street and competition.
MRT Performance
(+61-2-9809-2110) - Built 3rd outright place SX in 1998 Targa Tasmania
Nismo - Japan
The factory source. As far as I Know, these folks won't do mail order, but have agents in most countries where you could buy an SX

From April 2001, Nissan Australia is sourcing a limited range of Nismo parts for the S15.  Contact your dealer.

Part of Unique Auto Sports.
  Nizpro Australia
(+61-3-9761-1522/fax +61-3-9761-1533) - Simon has built some monster versions called "SX-R"
  Onboost Performance
(+61-2-9667-3337) Nissan specialists in Sydney
  Lee's Performance Parts
Online sales of import parts.
RUF Performance
(+61-2-9605-3477/fax +61-2-9605-8477)
  Selby Suspension Systems
(+61-2-9540-5533) - Have an economical lowering kit
  Shine Street
  Silvia Engineering
(+44-1621-858-856) Nissan specialists in the UK
  Steve Millen Performance (+1-714-540-5566/fax +1-714-540-5784) - Mainly 300ZX, but some interesting bits.
  Speed Technology Labs - Japan
Unique Autosports
(+61-2-9634-8000)   Nissan import specialists in Sydney
Whiteline Suspension
(+61-2-9280-2666/fax +61-2-9280-2500) - Have a full suspension package for the S13, S14 and S15

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